THE FINAL STAGE: JUNEAU TO SKAGWAY

30th July 2023

Day 83: Louisa Point to Benjamin Island
Saturday 29th July
Although Louisa Point was very comfortable and an easy carry of the boats, it was clearly a popular dog walking area and general hangout of the locals. Nothing wrong with that of course, until you find yourself in a bush, thinking you’re safe from prying eyes, squatting in the obvious vulnerable position and an unassuming member of public starts calling their beloved pooch back to heal. Not a strong look! The fear was real! 
The day was incredibly enjoyable. Untouched glassy water all the way. Leaving the beach at 08:30 it felt like we had the channel to ourselves. Snow-capped mountains on either side, the sun slowly moving overhead, we pulled into beaches for a stretch and snack before cruising again. Paddling these distances is certainly monotonous, even in such stunning locations in perfect conditions – the days build, the joints and muscles strain and the head can wander to dark places. The best method to avoid such affect or when going through a tough time is to, as advised by an old mountaineering friend, think about sex. Not the most convenient place to be thinking about that sort of thing but it definitely changes one’s mood. A slightly better and indeed more sociable method is to chat away, about anything and everything. As we moved into Favourite Channel, at the southern stretch of Lynn Canal, the topic of all the different islands and passages, narrows and headlands came up. Loads of them are names of friends, for example Higgins Narrows, where we experienced our first heavy fog patch: Luke Higgins being a friend and colleague from the yachts and Tilly Point, the first headland we landed on when arriving in Canada over a month beforehand – Tilly being one of my oldest friends from my hometown. Weeks beforehand, having completed the Dent rapids area halfway along Vancouver Island, we checked the charts before beginning our day on the water towards Johnstone Straits whereupon we found Fanny Island. Much excitement built up on what might be found on such an island. We glided passed this much anticipated rocky outcrop, only to find a navigational mark and a dead seagull. Genuine disappoint throughout the ranks. 
Another memorable location was located just south of Prince Rupert. ‘Markus Passage’. Markus was delighted, as he was coincidentally navigating that day. He welcomed us all to ‘his’ passage commenting that he couldn’t remember the last time he had so many fine men through his passage. Instantly lifting spirits! Well done Markus. 
We stopped for lunch on a beautiful white beach, witnessing the mountains across the channel in bright sunshine. As the tide dropped in front of us, we didn’t hang about. The final stretch took us through cloudy grey glacier waters for three miles until landing at camp. Marty and I performed the recce through the top of the beach and into the forest, only to find a family that had arrived some moments before us. The mother kindly suggested we move to the next beach along as there were huge flat areas to camp on in the woods. She was right. At that stage we were happy to crawl into the cool shade of the woods. With spirits high and heads relaxed, we set camp and got the coffees on.

Day 82: Juneau to Louisa Point
Friday 28th July
12nm 

We moved from the accommodation to the coastguard dock at 0700, strutting our stuff in drysuits, ruck sacks over shoulders. There was a debate as to whether to leave the bags on the nearby rocky beach and paddle the boats over as the dock was high, creating a problem in lifting them down to the water. Maybe over thinking it, we used the dock. Filling water bottles, securing deck equipment and double checking deck hatches, we departed with the fleet of docked cruise ships behind us and a small obstacle some five miles ahead. We had two options when leaving Juneau. Either play it safe by paddling the way we came in, down the channel and around Douglas Island or head north, past the airport through a huge area that dries out at low tide. We were on neap tides with a diurnal high – as in there are two high tides, one smaller than the other, so if we could arrive at mile 5 by 10:30 we’d be on point to cruise through. We did not reach mile 5 at 10:30. As we proceeded north, a slight breeze started to build. It was the usual story. Just enough resistance to alter the outcome. Head down, pulling away, knowing what missing the objective would mean for us. We hit the 5th mile over 45 minutes late. The sea bed came up fast from beneath until finally drying sand appeared in front.

Out we get, tow lines onto the bow and pull like hell! With the drying of this little channel, we assumed it would be drying from the centre or Galway point, therefore the area already dry would be slowing increasing in size. Time to get gritty! There were no instructions between us nor tempers flying, all knowing exactly what we needed to do. Get over the dry before it’s too late and we’re camping in a swamp. Go go go!!! The race was on! With Marty and I moving as quickly as possible dragging a boat, one at a time and Cayle hot stepping along the sinking sand shoreline with a loose prosthetic leg, with the added misery of an already painful stump, it was neck and neck all the way. As the water levels fell, it left behind small pockets of water roughly 2 or 3 inches deep, making it easier to shift all three, 18ft fully laden kayaks each weighing over 100kg. This intense interval process continued for 30 mins. The lactic acid burning in shoulders and thighs, thermals saturated and sticky, we finally pushed the vessels into a foot or two of water. Hands on knees, inhaling as much air as we could, we boarded the kayaks once again and got going before getting caught out again. We had reached mile eight by now and approvingly watched as the channel opened up and the seabed disappeared below. The final four miles of the day were glorious. Sunny with a refreshing wind coming down from off a glacier, sitting above Juneau airport. We headed over Auke Bay to find our planned camping on Louisa Point, a well-used camp area with plenty of space for the three of us. 
Once again the guys had been tested. No tempers or moaning. The plan fell apart and we dealt with it. No harm done, just an extra workout – just what we needed.